Review: Wm. Mulherin’s Sons – Philadelphia, PA

Just 10 years ago, the Fishtown section of Philadelphia was a hardscrabble working class neighborhood. Today, it’s a bustling hipster scene, akin to Brooklyn’s Williamsburg or Red Hook, teeming with new bars, gastropubs, and residences.

Fishtown is home to my favorite Philly pie slinger, Pizza Brain, and the highly-regarded Pizzeria Beddia. Last spring, Fishtown got its first “grown-up” restaurant with Wm. Mulherin’s Sons, according to Philly’s top food critic Craig Laban.

Wm. Mulherin’s Sons

With its odd hours, no phone, and no reservations policy, I don’t know if or when I might get to try Pizzeria Beddia. But the wildly popular Mulherin’s – only blocks away from Beddia – takes online reservations and even has its own parking lot in a neighborhood where parking is in short supply. Both the Mulherin’s name and the building harken back to the liquor business housed in this same building over a century ago, but the building is renovated and renewed in a way that seamlessly blends modern comfort with the vintage architectural flourishes.

Rear of the building, adjacent to parking lot

To my amazement, the small parking lot was not full when we arrived at 5:30pm, nor when we left around 7:30pm. Perhaps most patrons are close enough to walk or are city dwellers unburdened by car ownership. We were greeted and seated promptly in what was to be a pattern for the entire evening. The hostess, the waitress, and other servers were unfailingly polite, earnest, informed, and genuinely enthused about the food. Hats off to the people who are hiring and training this first-class staff.

The pizza kitchen area

We came, of course, for the pizza – but the …read more

Source:: Pizza Quixote